Tick Tick Tick Tick

Author: luke

Best Automatic Dive Watch Under 200 Bucks

Looking for the best automatic dive watch under 200 bucks? When you’re looking for an automatic dive watch in this price range, there are three companies that consistently pop up: Seiko, Citizen and Orient. They have a real corner on the basic automatic watch market, and for good reason. They are all able to produce quality movements that will take a beating, and they’re able to do it inexpensively enough that those savings get passed along to the customer.

Each company produces their own movements and they all have a nice lineup of attractive designs. Seiko in particular has dozens of options in this price range, as well as an active aftermarket modding community. With that said, what is the best watch for the money? This is somewhat subjective, but I will do my best to break it down below.

The watches we’re going to compare are the Seiko SKX007 and SKX009, The Orient Ray and Mako, the Seiko Monster and the Citizen Promaster Diver.

[hr style=”striped”]

Seiko SKX007 and SKX009

The SKX line was designed to be a professional diver’s watch. The SKX007 sticks to a traditional black while the SKX009 is a little flashier with its dual color bezel. All of the design decisions on this watch were made with utility in mind, and as such it gives off a strong tool watch vibe. This is evident everywhere you look, from the knurling around the bezel to the flat, uncluttered dial design. Seiko really embraced the function-over-form philosophy with this watch, but still managed to keep it quite attractive.

It employs a screw-down crown and screw-down case back with an ISO rating of 200 meters water resistance. The bracelet is a jubilee design with solid outer links and folded center links. This makes the bracelet somewhat lightweight and flimsy feeling. Some people might find the lighter weight and flexibility desirable, but for me it throws the balance of the watch off. That said, the bracelet is the easiest thing on a watch to replace, and Seiko offers an Oyster Bracelet that is exceptional.

All of this comes together to make for an attractive tough-as-nails watch, both above water and below.
[row cols_nr=”2″]
[col size=”6″]

Pros

[button size=”small”]Lots of aftermarket parts available[/button] [button size=”small”]Great Lume[/button] [button size=”small”]ISO Certified to 200m[/button]
[/col]
[col size=”6″]

Cons

[button size=”small”]Jubilee Bracelet feels flimsy[/button] [button size=”small”]Doesn’t hand wind[/button]
[/col]
[/row]

Price

You can find both the SKX007 and the SKX009 on Amazon for just under 200 bucks.

[hr style=”striped”]

Orient Ray & Mako

The Orient Ray and Mako are essentially identical save for the differing dials and hands. They both use the same case, which is nicely proportioned and feels solid. Where the Seiko SKX007 leans more towards a tool aesthetic, the Ray and Mako lean the other way entirely, incorporating more formal elements in their design. Where the SKX007 has a knurled bezel with sharp transitions, the Ray and Mako employ a smoothly angled bezel with shallow indents. This makes it more difficult to rotate, but damn does it look nice. The Ray and Mako both list a water resistance of 200 meters. However, they are not ISO certified, so keep that in mind before taking them down to the seafloor.

With a more refined look, these two might be more suited to the casual weekender than the serious divers out there. If you are looking for a dive watch that keeps the tool vibe on the down low and lets its inner tuxedo out, this might be the watch for you. The Ray really has a classy feel with its glossy black bezel and chrome outlined indices.

[row cols_nr=”2″]

[col size=”6″]

Pros

[button size=”small”]Nice Bracelet[/button] [button size=”small”]Great Lume[/button] [button size=”small”]Has a day pusher[/button]

[/col]

[col size=”6″]

Cons

[button size=”small”]Doesn’t hand wind[/button] [button size=”small”]Not ISO Certified[/button]

[/col]

[/row]

Price

Both the Ray and the Mako can be found on Orient’s website for around $300.00, however if you use the Coupon Code “Memorial50″ you can get 50% off your entire order as well as free shipping. This brings each watch down to about $150.00. Not bad!

[hr style=”striped”]

Seiko Monster

The Seiko monster, as its name may suggest, is a rather bold watch. People tend to either love it or hate it, and I have to admit at first I didn’t like it at all. Given a casual glance I thought the Monster was, well, kind of ugly. The first details I noticed were the clunky indices and gigantic bezel, and it was kind of a shock. Why is this watch so popular? I don’t get it! It wasn’t until I actually got my hands on one that it started to dawn on me. The construction on this watch is outstanding. All of the design elements that seem so strange at first begin to make sense upon closer inspection. The shroud, the dial and hands, the enormous bezel, it all somehow fits together, making what I thought was an asymmetrical mess seem measured and balanced. This is a watch that takes some getting used to and you really have to hold it in your hands to appreciate the strange beauty of this hulking monster.

There is no denying that this watch has serious wrist presence, and you need to keep that in mind when wearing it. Is it a great weekend watch? Absolutely. Good for a board meeting? Maybe not.

[row cols_nr=”2″]

[col size=”6″]

Pros

[button size=”small”]Aggressive Styling[/button] [button size=”small”]Great Lume[/button] [button size=”small”]Great Bracelet[/button]

[/col]

[col size=”6″]

Cons

[button size=”small”]Maybe too Aggressive Styling[/button] [button size=”small”]Doesn’t hand wind[/button]

[/col]

[/row]

Price

The Seiko Black Monster and Orange Monster can be found on Amazon for 184.00 each.

[hr style=”striped”]

Citizen Promaster Diver

Citizen is a Japanese watch manufacturer that has been around since the early 1900’s. Like Seiko, they manufacture a large array of timepieces that fit within many price brackets. Much of their development over the last 15 or so years has been focused on their Eco Drive watches, which are great in their own right, but today we will be focusing on one of their automatics, the Promaster Diver.

The first thing you’ll notice about the Promaster Diver is Citizen’s take on the classic Pepsi dial. It is nicely proportioned and the numerals are crisp and well defined. The next aspect that catches the eye is the obliquely slanted chapter ring. This element along with the gently sloping case give it a pillowy look that seems somewhat soft for a tool watch, but somehow still works well.

The Promaster Diver uses Citizen’s Miyota movement which is every bit as durable and reliable as the Seiko 7s26 movements, and has the added benefit of being hand windable. The hand winding option is nice, but it comes at the cost of only being wound by the rotor in one direction, so you might need to hand wind it from time to time, though that is only speculation on my part.

With a case diameter of 41mm including the crown, the Promaster Diver is the smallest watch in our lineup, which may or may not be desirable depending on your wrist. Another item of note is that Citizen stopped making bracelets for this particular watch, so with the Promaster Diver, it’s rubber strap or nothing.

[row cols_nr=”2″]

[col size=”6″]

Pros

[button size=”small”]Hand Windable[/button] [button size=”small”]ISO Certified to 200m[/button]

[/col]

[col size=”6″]

Cons

[button size=”small”]Bracelet discontinued[/button] [button size=”small”]Rotor only winds in one direction[/button]

[/col]

[/row]

Price

The Citizen Promaster Diver is getting harder to find online, but you can still pick one up at Citizen Watches Online for about 155.00.

[hr style=”striped”]

So now that we’ve seen all the watches side by side, which is the best? Well, unfortunately that’s not something I can decide unequivocally. Each watch has its strengths and weaknesses, and none are so glaringly obvious that one could be called objectively better than the other. It all comes down to personal preference at this point, and you really can’t go wrong with any of them. Each of these watches is a bargain at under 200 bucks and you’ll get a lot of watch for the money no matter which you pick.

April 23, 2014
How to Break In a Watch Bracelet

Is your metal watch bracelet not as loose and fluid as you would like? Maybe it squeaks on your wrist? Good news, there is a simple fix that will make your bracelet smooth as butter and is good for your skin to boot!

Baby Oil Watch Bracelet Bath

That’s right, we’re going to soak that watch bracelet in Baby Oil (or mineral oil if you prefer).

If you like the smell of baby oil head on over to the childcare section of your favorite pharmacy, or if you prefer you can get it on Amazon as well. Baby oil is just mineral oil with a pleasant scent added, so if you don’t want the added scent, no problem! You can find 100% mineral oil in the isle alongside the laxatives, or you can find it on Amazon too.

You do not want to soak the entire watch in mineral oil, only the bracelet, so the first step will be to use a spring bar tool to remove the bracelet from the watch head.

With that done I usually take this opportunity to wash the bracelet with my ultrasonic cleaner. If you don’t have an ultrasonic cleaner you can use a soft toothbrush with a mild detergent instead. Dish soap works well to clean out any gunk that might have gathered within the links or under the clasp. This is assuming this isn’t a brand new watch, in which case you can skip this step.

Next you’ll want to put your bracelet in a zip-lock bag and pour a small amount of baby oil in. You’ll want just enough to completely submerge the entire bracelet.

Work the baby oil into the bracelet by rolling the bag around in your hand and manipulating the bracelet inside the bag. You want to work the baby oil into all of the small crevices in the bracelet. Once you are satisfied that you’ve got it all worked in you can set the bag aside and let it sit overnight.

When you are ready to take the bracelet out make sure you have paper towels nearby! This stuff gets everywhere. Remove the bracelet and lay it on the paper towels. Let it sit for a few minutes while the excess oil seeps out. Once that is done grab a fresh paper towel and dry the bracelet, end links, and spring bars as best as you can.

Next I usually let the bracelet sit in a sunny window for a couple hours. This will help to draw the excess baby oil out which can then be dabbed away with a fresh paper towel.

With that done I suggest taking this opportunity to polish the links with a jeweler’s cloth. With the bracelet detached from the watch head you should be able to polish every little corner to a beautiful shine.

All that’s left now is to reattach the bracelet to the watch head and enjoy your hard work. Small amounts of baby oil may leak out for the next day or two, but don’t worry, it’s good for your skin and smells great!

April 18, 2014
Bernhardt Binnacle Diver Review

Bernhardt Binnacle Diver Review

Bernhardt is a relatively unknown watch manufacturer based in the United States. Founded by Fred Amos, the Bernhardt watch company is a small operation that forgoes advertising to ensure their customers get the most watch possible for their money. It is because of this ethos that Bernhardt remains one of the few companies that can put out a quality watch with solid construction and sapphire glass for under 300 dollars. They currently have a lineup of eight designs, but the one we’re concerned with today is the Binnacle Diver.

Crystal, Bezel, Case & Crown

Crystal:

The crystal is one of the many high points on the Binnacle. It is sapphire, making it virtually scratch proof, perfectly flat and stands slightly proud of the bezel.

Bezel:

The bezel on the Binnacle has 5-minute indicators encircling the entire bezel with symmetrical brackets connecting the numerals. The lettering is only available in silver on black. It would have been nice to have different bezel options, but the silver on black still works well with the different dial colors. The solid and highly symmetrical look of the bezel makes me think of the Tudor Black Bay–not a bad association!

Bernhardt Binnacle Diver Bezel

Case:

The case is solid steel with broad rounded lugs. The caseback bears a shark logo as well as the water resistance and material specifications. Another nice touch that Bearnhardt includes on all of their watches is an individually numbered case. This is a small gesture that makes your watch feel personal and special.

Crown:

The crown is that of a standard screw-down variety with a “B” engraved on the end.

Dial/Hands:

The dial is one aspect of the Binnacle that I’m on the fence about. It wasn’t immediately clear to me that the indicies were supposed to simulate a shark bite, but once I made that connection it was all I could see when looking at the Binnacle Diver and was somewhat distracting. This seems to be a polarizing design choice for Bernhardt–people either love it or hate it. I can’t help but feel like it’s slightly cheesy, though with that said, if there is type of watch that could pull off a little bit of cheese it’s the diver. I feel like the design is growing on me slightly, but I’m still on the fence.

The hands are another area where I wasn’t particularly blown away. There is nothing wrong with them, but considering this watch has a big personality with the dial I would have hoped that the hands would back that up. Maybe a blood red second hand?

The dials are available in a variety of colors that should fit within many people’s aesthetics. My two personal favorites are the black and champagne.

Bernhardt Binnacle Diver Dial

Lume:

Lume is an area that Bernhardt has struggled with in the past. Their previous generation of divers suffered from so-so lume that was reportedly patchy and dim. With the Binnacle Diver they have improved substantially. The lume appears to be evenly applied and while not of the same caliber of other divers (like say the Seiko SKX) it is still super luminova, and does the job.

Bracelet:

The bracelet is another high point with the Binnacle Diver. Bernhardt has always been known for their quality bracelets and the Binnacle Diver has a bracelet that lives up to the hype. Solid and substantial feeling with screw in links make this a pleasure to wear and a cinch to size. Couldn’t ask for a better bracelet.

Bernhardt Binnacle Diver Bracelet

Movement & Accuracy:

Bernhard sources Miyota 8215 movements for the Binnacle Diver. Designed by the Citizen Corporation of Japan, Miyota movements are known for their reliability and are able to withstand years of use and abuse. I wasn’t able to get the watch on my timegrapher, so I can’t speak to the accuracy, but knowing the Miyota 8215 I wouldn’t worry.

Packaging/Presentation:

The Binnacle Diver comes in a leather travel case and is very carefully wrapped and packaged. Previous watches from Bernhardt came in a spectacular wood box which has since been discontinued.

Conclusion:

The Binnacle Diver is an absolutely spectacular watch considering the price. The quality of materials and level of detail present in this watch simply can’t be beat within this price range. If you are a fan of the shark bite aesthetic this is a absolute no-brainer. Buy this watch right now. If you are like me and can’t quite get past the dial, sit back and keep an eye on bernhardtwatch.com

[button size=”small”]Options[/button]

The Binnacle Diver is available in Black, Blue, Burgundy, Green and Champagne.

[button size=”small”]Price[/button]

$259.00 From BernhardtWatch.com

I hope you found this Bernhardt Binnacle Diver review helpful! Did I leave something out? Have something to add? Let me know in the comments.

April 11, 2014
Ace Timegrapher Review

Ace Timegrapher Review

The more my interest in watches grew the further I felt myself falling down the rabbit hole. Simply appreciating watches for the way they looked suddenly wasn’t enough. I wanted to understand them. Accuracy, amplitude, beat error, these are all things that I needed to learn to interpret if I wanted to deepen my understanding of these beautiful little machines, and the only way to do that was to get my hands on a Timegrapher.

Enter the Ace Timer Timegrapher 1000

This is a basic unit that has all of the features I wanted and nothing else. It is quite simple in its construction and programming, which is fine by me. So that said, what does it measure?

[hr style=”striped”]

Beat Rate

This is how fast or slow the watch movement runs and is measured in seconds per day. My custom built Flieger with an ETA 6497 runs at an outstanding rate of +2 seconds a day. I couldn’t ask for better.
[hr style=”striped”]

Amplitude

Amplitude is the measure of swing in the balance wheel. The amplitude can be affected by the amount of energy in the mainspring as well as the position of the watch in space. It can be an important indication of the watches overall health.
[hr style=”striped”]

Beat Error

The amount of variation in the timing of swing from one side to the other in the oscillation of the balance wheel. Generally, beat error should not exceed 0.8ms in any single position.
[hr style=”striped”]

So now that we know what it measures, how does it work? Basically you place a watch on the clamp, it thinks for a couple of moments to figure out the train count then starts showing the beat rate. It is set to autodetect the rate by default, and does a perfectly fine job, though if you chose you can set it manually.

The only thing you’ll need to set yourself is the lift angle, which refers to the angle the balance passes through while interacting with the pallet fork. Most modern watches use a lift angle of 50 – 52 degrees, though this can vary based on your particular watch. It is important to set this correctly otherwise the amplitude reading will be incorrect.

The microphone and stand is very sturdy and appears to be well built. It is adjustable to 6 positions. You will want to measure your watch in each position to get a good feel for the performance of the piece in all possible configurations.

Overall I have been very satisfied with this timegrapher. It is a simple tool that does its job effectively. If you are a serious watch collector, or even just a hobbyist with an interest in more fully understanding your watches I can definitely recommend this gadget.

[button]Price[/button]

$185.00 at Amazon.com

I hope you found this Ace Timegrapher review helpful! Did I leave something out? Have something to add? Let me know in the comments.

April 3, 2014
Orient Ray Review

Orient Ray Review

Orient is a Japanese manufacturer of dependable, mechanical watches. Designing and manufacturing their own movements for the last 50+ years, they have much deserved reputation of quality timepieces at an affordable price.

The Ray is the predecessor to Orient’s popular Mako line of watches. With the Ray Orient has added some new features and ironed out some of the kinks that plagued the Mako line, making it one of their best sellers. The Ray does a great job of fitting the mold of a capable tool watch while still keeping a low enough profile to work as a dressed up dive watch.

Orient Ray

Crystal:

The crystal stands slightly proud of the bezel with a gently beveled edge. The material is your standard mineral hardened glass.

Bezel:

The unidirectional bezel feels tight and secure with a 60-click full rotation. There is zero back slipping and though I have seen complaints elsewhere, mine lines up perfectly at the 12 o’clock position. That said, the grip on the bezel is very shallow, which looks nice, but ultimately makes it hard to turn. The markings on the bezel are that of your standard diver with single minute markers until the 15-minute point, and 10 minute numerals thereafter.

Dial/Hands:

The dial has a matte finish that looks great with the over sized diver indices. The scale of the hands to indices to bezel font is spot on to my eye, which is something that has bothered me on other dive watches. Orient got everything right for me in this design. The day/date window has a chamfered cut to it with an applied chrome border that matches that of the hands and indices.

Lume:

The lume on the Ray is just as bright as my Seiko divers, which is a great bar for Orient to meet. It glows like the sun and stays bright for quite a while. The silver border on the hands and indices makes for a nice sharp edge to the glow of the lume. Here is a comparison of the Ray and the SKX007. No complaints here.

Crown:

The Ray has a screw down crown as well as a screw down day quickset. I have heard people complaining that the screw down quickset can unscrew itself while being worn, but that hasn’t been my experience. It makes a tight seal on both the crown and the day pusher and while I haven’t personally dived with this watch I would feel fine taking it all the way down without any worries.

Bracelet:

The bracelet is one place Orient really improved with the Ray. The links are solid and the bracelet feels really great overall. It uses a fold over clasp with double push-button safety. The oyster style looks good and the matte finish with polished stripes is a nice touch.

Movement & Accuracy:

The movement under the hood is Orient’s caliber 46943, which is a sturdy, reliable movement. The rotor feels smooth and is whisper quiet.

Packaging/Presentation:

The packaging is nice with a metal inset lid and pillow on the interior. Nothing too spectacular, but still perfectly acceptable.

Conclusion:

The Ray is an all around solid choice for anybody looking for a handsome diver under 300 dollars.

[button size=”small”]Options[/button]

The Ray (FEM6500) is available in Black, Blue, and Orange flavors.

[button size=”small”]Price[/button]

$149.99 From Amazon.com

$295.00 Fron OrientWatchUSA.com (use cupon code “Youtube30” for 30% off at checkout)

I hope you found this Orient Ray review helpful! Did I leave something out? Have something to add? Let me know in the comments.

March 22, 2014
Orient Thresher Review

Orient Thresher Review

The Thresher is a nice looking diver with what I would call a black-tie sort of styling. This is a watch that can easily pull off a more dressed up look, but unfortunately I found it is lacking some of the qualities I’ve come to expect in an Orient dive watch.

Crystal:

The crystal is completely flat without any beveling or chamfering and sits parallel with the top surface of the bezel. The crystal is made of your standard mineral hardened glass, and given the nature of this flat, edgeless design, should resist scratches and chips fairly well.

Orient Thresher Dial

Bezel:

The unidirectional bezel doesn’t feel quite as tight as other Orient divers I’ve handled (namely the Mako and Ray). That said, the grip on the bezel is good with six lugs protruding at 10-minute intervals. The markings on the bezel are that of your standard diver with single minute marker until the 15-minute point, and 5 minute numerals thereafter. There are 60 clicks in a full rotation. The blackness of the bezel itself looks nice, though I suspect it could be prone to scratching.

Orient Thresher

Dial/Hands:

The dial is nice looking with a very subtle sunray pattern over a black satin gloss. The effect is more dress-like than diver-like, which I suspect was the idea for this watch overall. The indices are executed in raised batons which help to reinforce the “classy” look of this watch. The date window was slightly disappointing however with what appears to be slightly different colors on the day and date wheels. This is only noticeable upon close inspection, but was still a disappointment none the less.

Lume:

The lume on this model is significantly less bright than my Orient Ray. The indices and hands look good during the day, but nighttime is a disappointment with this watch. Take a look at this comparison to the Ray’s lume taken under identical exposure settings. Bummer.

Orient Thresher – Lume Shot

Orient Ray – Lume Shot

Crown:

The crown is your standard pull out crown. I would have liked to see a screw down crown seeing as this is technically marketed as a dive watch. The quickset for the day is a recessed pusher located at the 2 o’clock position. This is a simple means of changing the day, though I wouldn’t think this mechanism is particularly water tight.

Bracelet:

The bracelet is your traditional oyster bracelet style. Unfortunately it is made from folded links that feel hollow and tinny. The watch feels slightly unbalanced with a lightweight bracelet and fairly heavy watch head. With that said, it does employ a nice closing mechanism with double pushers and a safety clasp.

Deployment clasp

Movement:

The movement under the hood is Orient’s caliber 46943, which is a sturdy, reliable movement. The rotor on this particular model seems a little bit loud, but this may just be due to the thinner case not muffling the noise.

Packaging/Presentation:

The packaging was the nicest I’ve seen from Orient to date. The box is a folding design that opens up like an oyster to revel the watch. The top opens and the front wall folds down leading to a very dramatic first impression. This was a nice touch, but really, nobody buys a watch for the box.

Conclusion:

I really wanted to like the Thresher, but as I looked at it the bad slowly started to outweigh the good. This is an attractive diver that is more suited to life under a sleeved shirt than under the water. There isn’t anything wrong with that really, and if you really like the look, then by all means go ahead and get it, but seeing that this watch is well within the same price point of other watches in Orient’s catalog that have higher quality components and better finishes I would pass on the Thresher and go for something else. If you do pick it up my suggestion would be: replace the bracelet and keep it away from the ocean.

[button size=”small”]Options[/button]

The Thresher (FEM7C00) is available in Black on Black, Silver on Black, Silver on Blue, and Silver on White.

[button size=”small”]Price[/button]

$159.99 From Amazon.com

$275.00 Fron OrientWatchUSA.com (use cupon code “Youtube30” for 30% off at checkout)

I hope you found this Orient Thresher review helpful! Did I leave something out? Have something to add? Let me know in the comments.

March 21, 2014
Seiko SKX007 Review

Seiko SKX007 Review

The SKX007 models are direct descendants of Seiko’s first dive watches developed in the early 1960’s. For all of the high end Swiss watches out there, the watch you’re most likely to find on an actual dive boat is the humble Seiko. Designed to be inexpensive but still accurate and reliable, the Seiko SKX series have become an obvious choice for many dive enthusiasts. Seiko offers this line in various configurations, all bearing a resemblance to their predecessors. Because of this self-similarity some people complain that these watches are all too alike and haven’t evolved over the years, but in my opinion they are simply sticking with what works and developing an identity that is distinctly their own. The oversized dial markers and hands, the four-o’clock crown position, the thick and angular bezel and crown guard are all part of the package. Love it or hate it, the SKX line remains popular amongst divers and is the best selling style for Seiko.

All of the opinions below are based on a stock SKX007 that I received for review.

Case:

The SKX007 has a thick stainless steel case with 22mm lugs. The oversized screw down crown and crown guard are angled to the 4 o’clock position, which makes for a comfortable fit. The 45-degree angle also makes changing the time more comfortable. I feel like I am less likely to accidentally pull any arm hairs out while changing the time, which is always nice. The total height measured from bezel to case back is 13.25mm, which makes the SKX slightly harder to “dress up” and wear under a shirt sleeve.

Seiko SKX007 Case and Bracelet

Crystal:

The crystal is completely flat with a chamfered edge and lies slightly countersunk into the bezel. This gives the watch a very square profile. The crystal itself is made from Seiko’s Hardlex material, which should keep it from getting too scratched up. It isn’t sapphire, but it’s probably the next best thing.

Bezel:

The unidirectional bezel feels tight and the clicks have a nice sound to them when rotated. The grip on the bezel is decent, though I feel like the teeth could have been less rounded to give a better grip overall. There are 120 clicks in a full rotation.

Dial/Hands:

The dial has a very clean and uncluttered look, which is exactly what I like to see in a diver. The oversized hands and makers look great during the day, and when the lights go out, whoa buddy look out! The Lumibright lume glows like the sun and keeps its strength for quite a while. The day/date window is clean and attractive with a nice large font that fits well with the oversized styling of the markers and hands. The day can display in either english or spanish, which is nice, however one detractor is the fact that the date function is a dragging day/date, which means it will begin to rotate at around 11pm and won’t fully snap over until 1am, leaving you in limbo for an hour each day. It is also important to not that you shouldn’t use the day/date quickset during this time, though what actually happens if you do is unclear to me.

Seiko SKX007 Dial

Lume:

Seiko uses Lumibright lume, which is some of the brightest and most long lasting lume I’ve ever encountered. The dial markers and hands are generously coated and the lume is evenly distributed all the way to the edge of each marker. There is no border or outline around the markers so the light from the lume is free to spread out in all directions giving a slightly ghosted appearance in the dark. Some people might not like the lack of sharpness, but to me this is something that adds to the character of the watch.

Seiko SKX007 with Lumibrite Lume

Crown:

The crown has a nice projection and is easy enough to grip, though I would prefer if it were a little more chunky looking. The grooves in the surface are thin and closely spaced, giving the crown a slightly feminine appearance that feels out of place on this beefy tool watch.

Seiko SKX007 Crown & Bezel

Bracelet:

The K1 version comes with a “Jubilee” style bracelet, which is very flexible and comfortable. It has solid links measuring 22mm at the lugs which taper down to 20mm at the clasp. This is a comfortable bracelet, but like the crown it somehow feels out of place on the heavy 007. The bracelet employs a folding clasp design with a secondary safety clasp.

SKX007 – Folding Clasp

Movement:

Seiko is known for making reliable movements that can take a beating. The 007 uses the 21 jewel 7s26. The rotor powering the movement is quite smooth and very quiet. I had to hold the watch to my ear to hear it at all. I would imageine this is partly due to the thickness of the case muffling the sounds of the movement, and partly due to well oiled rotor bearings. This movement is not hand wind-able and is non-hacking, which is too bad, but considering the price I’m not complaining.

Packaging/Presentation:

The watch comes in a white box with removable top lid. Inside the 007 is wrapped around a white pillow, though mine had come loose during shipping and was just rattling around in the box. If this were a dress watch I might have been bummed out that my first impression was of a crumpled watch rattling around in a box with a pillow, however since this is a rough-and-tough tool watch that is designed to be beaten up and sunk under the ocean, it was a perfectly acceptable appearance.

Conclusion:

This is an easy watch to like. It has all of the stylings that you would expect from a diver but somehow still manages to keep it’s personality intact.

The SKX007 is available in both Steel Jubilee Bracelet and Rubber Strap flavors for under 200 dollars.
Though if you want the best possible SKX007 experience I would swap out the stock bracelet for the amazingly comfortable 22mm Super Oyster Bracelet. This is 50 dollars well spent.

I hope you found this Seiko SKX007 review helpful! Did I leave something out? Have something to add? Let me know in the comments.

March 16, 2014
How to Choose a Good Dive Watch (That you can actually dive with)
How to Choose a Good Dive Watch

The watch world is flooded with dive watches of all imaginable sizes, shapes, colors and styles. Unfortunately some of these are “fashion” watches masquerading as dive watches. While they may have borrowed the look of a classic diver, they have no business being under the water’s surface and certainly won’t last long at depth. So what do you do when you want a good looking, but more importantly, functional dive watch?

A good functional Dive Watch has six basic functions that allow for safe operation in the crushing depths of the ocean.

When starting your search for that perfect dive watch to use on your expedition it is important to make sure the watch possesses the standard features required for a safe and enjoyable dive. Some of these features come down to personal preference, while others are absolutely mandatory for both the safety of the diver and the watch.

In addition to the basic features of the watch another consideration is Price. Should you spend the extra cash on a watch that has a rich history, flawless quality control, and exotic materials or stick to a basic yet reliable workhorse? Luckily there are many great choices out there that will fit well within anybody’s budget and I will list my favorites at the end.

The Six Requirements of a Good Dive Watch

1) Water Resistance

Water Droplets Under the Crystal

Water resistance is, not surprisingly, the most fundamental and important characteristic of all true dive watches. If you find yourself under the ocean with a cracked crystal and soggy dial, you might as well slip it off and donate the watch to Davy Jones, because it’s not going to be doing you and good.

Water resistance to a minimum of 200 meters depth is generally recommended. In order to meet this depth rating, a dive watch has to meet ISO-6425 specifications, which is a certified international standard for compliant dive watches. Each watch has to withstand a pressure rating that is 25% higher than their stated depth, meaning the dive watch has to pass a lab test simulating 250 meters if it is stated be 200m by the manufacturer.

To achieve water resistance ratings of more than 200 meters, the entire structure of the watch has to be engineered with structural strength in mind. To withstand depths of more than 1000m additional elements may be necessary, including much thicker crystals, beefier cases, Helium escape valves, etc.

The watch case should be made of surgical grade 316L stainless steel or titanium to withstand the intense pressures applied. These are great materials for both their strength and corrosion resistance.

2) Screw Down Crown, Pushers And Case Back

Tudor Submariner with Triplock Screw-Down Crown

Since the crown and case back are the most vulnerable points for water to penetrate, your watch should employ a screw down mechanism and have good gaskets to provide a 100% water-tight seal. You should make sure before any diving excursion that each pusher and crown is tightly screwed down for a secure seal. Be sure to check for this feature. Some high end manufacturers employ sealing methods that involve double gaskets, or cam locking mechanisms, but generally the screw down method is the most reliable, and as such most widely used.

3) Unidirectional Rotating Bezel

Unidirectional Bezel on an Orient Mako II

All classic dive watches for consideration should include a unidirectional rotating bezel with a luminous marker at the 12 o’clock position. This bezel provides another way to measure elapsed time that is easily readable at a glance. The unidirectional nature of the bezel is a safety feature that ensures that the dial won’t accidentally move backwards during your dive, giving you the impression that you have more time than you actually do. If the bezel does get nudged while underwater, the effect is that you will simply go to the surface slightly earlier. You don’t want to overstay your welcome under water when oxygen is limited, and this feature is just one more safety precaution that you shouldn’t overlook.

4) Clear Legibility

A Simple Layout with Great Lume Makes the Seiko SKX007 a Popular Dive Watch

The ocean can be a dark place, and the farther down you go the darker it gets. It is because of this that you want your dive watch to be clear, uncluttered, and easy to read at a glance. The hands, hour markers and dial face should be large and uncluttered, with generous amounts of long lasting lume.

5) Corrosion Resistance

Omega Seamaster with Titanium Case and Bezel

One important characteristic of a dive watch that can sometimes be overlooked is the use of corrosion resistant materials, as well as materials that are easy to clean and resist sea salt buildup. You should look for cases that are made of high grade stainless steel or titanium. Other materials that may be incorporated are ceramics and rubber. Avoid plastics as they will become brittle over time.

6) Specialized Bracelet Or Strap

Orsa Monstrum with Rubber Strap & Seiko Monster with Steel Bracelet

If you plan on wearing your dive watch both in the water and on dry land, it is important to get a bracelet or strap that can work in either situation. When in the ocean you will generally want to wear your watch over a wetsuit, and as such will need to make it larger to fit. All serious dive watches will have a concealed extendable deployment clasp that allows the bracelet to be extended to fit over a wetsuit. If you don’t want a metal bracelet, there are plenty of rubber or nylon straps out there that would work just as well.

The rest is up to you!

So now that you have the basics down, it’s up to you to find a style that fits your personal preference. If you prefer a giant bezel and bright colors the Seiko Orange Monster could be right up your alley. If you prefer a more subdued look that would work both underwater and in a more formal situation take a look at the Orient Mako or Orient Ray Raven. Are you looking for a timeless design that set the standard for dive watches and tool watches in general? The Rolex Submariner is your ticket. Something a little flashier with the same beautiful stylings as a Rolex? Let me introduce you to the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean. Is your last name Bond? Here’s your Omega Seamaster, Mr. Bond; time to dive.

So in summary you want to make sure your watch has the following features:
- Water Resistance
- Screw Down Crown (or other sealing mechanism)
- Unidirectional Dial
- Clear Legibility & Bright Lume
- Corrosion Resistance
- Adjustable Bracelet or Expandable Strap
Looking for further recommendations? Check out some of my Dive Watch Reviews Below:

Bernhardt Binnacle Diver Review

Seiko SKX007 Review

Orient Ray Review

Orient Thresher Review
March 13, 2014