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Bernhardt Binnacle Diver Review

Bernhardt Binnacle Diver Review

Bernhardt is a relatively unknown watch manufacturer based in the United States. Founded by Fred Amos, the Bernhardt watch company is a small operation that forgoes advertising to ensure their customers get the most watch possible for their money. It is because of this ethos that Bernhardt remains one of the few companies that can put out a quality watch with solid construction and sapphire glass for under 300 dollars. They currently have a lineup of eight designs, but the one we’re concerned with today is the Binnacle Diver.

Crystal, Bezel, Case & Crown

Crystal:

The crystal is one of the many high points on the Binnacle. It is sapphire, making it virtually scratch proof, perfectly flat and stands slightly proud of the bezel.

Bezel:

The bezel on the Binnacle has 5-minute indicators encircling the entire bezel with symmetrical brackets connecting the numerals. The lettering is only available in silver on black. It would have been nice to have different bezel options, but the silver on black still works well with the different dial colors. The solid and highly symmetrical look of the bezel makes me think of the Tudor Black Bay–not a bad association!

Bernhardt Binnacle Diver Bezel

Case:

The case is solid steel with broad rounded lugs. The caseback bears a shark logo as well as the water resistance and material specifications. Another nice touch that Bearnhardt includes on all of their watches is an individually numbered case. This is a small gesture that makes your watch feel personal and special.

Crown:

The crown is that of a standard screw-down variety with a “B” engraved on the end.

Dial/Hands:

The dial is one aspect of the Binnacle that I’m on the fence about. It wasn’t immediately clear to me that the indicies were supposed to simulate a shark bite, but once I made that connection it was all I could see when looking at the Binnacle Diver and was somewhat distracting. This seems to be a polarizing design choice for Bernhardt–people either love it or hate it. I can’t help but feel like it’s slightly cheesy, though with that said, if there is type of watch that could pull off a little bit of cheese it’s the diver. I feel like the design is growing on me slightly, but I’m still on the fence.

The hands are another area where I wasn’t particularly blown away. There is nothing wrong with them, but considering this watch has a big personality with the dial I would have hoped that the hands would back that up. Maybe a blood red second hand?

The dials are available in a variety of colors that should fit within many people’s aesthetics. My two personal favorites are the black and champagne.

Bernhardt Binnacle Diver Dial

Lume:

Lume is an area that Bernhardt has struggled with in the past. Their previous generation of divers suffered from so-so lume that was reportedly patchy and dim. With the Binnacle Diver they have improved substantially. The lume appears to be evenly applied and while not of the same caliber of other divers (like say the Seiko SKX) it is still super luminova, and does the job.

Bracelet:

The bracelet is another high point with the Binnacle Diver. Bernhardt has always been known for their quality bracelets and the Binnacle Diver has a bracelet that lives up to the hype. Solid and substantial feeling with screw in links make this a pleasure to wear and a cinch to size. Couldn’t ask for a better bracelet.

Bernhardt Binnacle Diver Bracelet

Movement & Accuracy:

Bernhard sources Miyota 8215 movements for the Binnacle Diver. Designed by the Citizen Corporation of Japan, Miyota movements are known for their reliability and are able to withstand years of use and abuse. I wasn’t able to get the watch on my timegrapher, so I can’t speak to the accuracy, but knowing the Miyota 8215 I wouldn’t worry.

Packaging/Presentation:

The Binnacle Diver comes in a leather travel case and is very carefully wrapped and packaged. Previous watches from Bernhardt came in a spectacular wood box which has since been discontinued.

Conclusion:

The Binnacle Diver is an absolutely spectacular watch considering the price. The quality of materials and level of detail present in this watch simply can’t be beat within this price range. If you are a fan of the shark bite aesthetic this is a absolute no-brainer. Buy this watch right now. If you are like me and can’t quite get past the dial, sit back and keep an eye on bernhardtwatch.com

[button size=”small”]Options[/button]

The Binnacle Diver is available in Black, Blue, Burgundy, Green and Champagne.

[button size=”small”]Price[/button]

$259.00 From BernhardtWatch.com

I hope you found this Bernhardt Binnacle Diver review helpful! Did I leave something out? Have something to add? Let me know in the comments.

April 11, 2014
Orient Ray Review

Orient Ray Review

Orient is a Japanese manufacturer of dependable, mechanical watches. Designing and manufacturing their own movements for the last 50+ years, they have much deserved reputation of quality timepieces at an affordable price.

The Ray is the predecessor to Orient’s popular Mako line of watches. With the Ray Orient has added some new features and ironed out some of the kinks that plagued the Mako line, making it one of their best sellers. The Ray does a great job of fitting the mold of a capable tool watch while still keeping a low enough profile to work as a dressed up dive watch.

Orient Ray

Crystal:

The crystal stands slightly proud of the bezel with a gently beveled edge. The material is your standard mineral hardened glass.

Bezel:

The unidirectional bezel feels tight and secure with a 60-click full rotation. There is zero back slipping and though I have seen complaints elsewhere, mine lines up perfectly at the 12 o’clock position. That said, the grip on the bezel is very shallow, which looks nice, but ultimately makes it hard to turn. The markings on the bezel are that of your standard diver with single minute markers until the 15-minute point, and 10 minute numerals thereafter.

Dial/Hands:

The dial has a matte finish that looks great with the over sized diver indices. The scale of the hands to indices to bezel font is spot on to my eye, which is something that has bothered me on other dive watches. Orient got everything right for me in this design. The day/date window has a chamfered cut to it with an applied chrome border that matches that of the hands and indices.

Lume:

The lume on the Ray is just as bright as my Seiko divers, which is a great bar for Orient to meet. It glows like the sun and stays bright for quite a while. The silver border on the hands and indices makes for a nice sharp edge to the glow of the lume. Here is a comparison of the Ray and the SKX007. No complaints here.

Crown:

The Ray has a screw down crown as well as a screw down day quickset. I have heard people complaining that the screw down quickset can unscrew itself while being worn, but that hasn’t been my experience. It makes a tight seal on both the crown and the day pusher and while I haven’t personally dived with this watch I would feel fine taking it all the way down without any worries.

Bracelet:

The bracelet is one place Orient really improved with the Ray. The links are solid and the bracelet feels really great overall. It uses a fold over clasp with double push-button safety. The oyster style looks good and the matte finish with polished stripes is a nice touch.

Movement & Accuracy:

The movement under the hood is Orient’s caliber 46943, which is a sturdy, reliable movement. The rotor feels smooth and is whisper quiet.

Packaging/Presentation:

The packaging is nice with a metal inset lid and pillow on the interior. Nothing too spectacular, but still perfectly acceptable.

Conclusion:

The Ray is an all around solid choice for anybody looking for a handsome diver under 300 dollars.

[button size=”small”]Options[/button]

The Ray (FEM6500) is available in Black, Blue, and Orange flavors.

[button size=”small”]Price[/button]

$149.99 From Amazon.com

$295.00 Fron OrientWatchUSA.com (use cupon code “Youtube30” for 30% off at checkout)

I hope you found this Orient Ray review helpful! Did I leave something out? Have something to add? Let me know in the comments.

March 22, 2014
Orient Thresher Review

Orient Thresher Review

The Thresher is a nice looking diver with what I would call a black-tie sort of styling. This is a watch that can easily pull off a more dressed up look, but unfortunately I found it is lacking some of the qualities I’ve come to expect in an Orient dive watch.

Crystal:

The crystal is completely flat without any beveling or chamfering and sits parallel with the top surface of the bezel. The crystal is made of your standard mineral hardened glass, and given the nature of this flat, edgeless design, should resist scratches and chips fairly well.

Orient Thresher Dial

Bezel:

The unidirectional bezel doesn’t feel quite as tight as other Orient divers I’ve handled (namely the Mako and Ray). That said, the grip on the bezel is good with six lugs protruding at 10-minute intervals. The markings on the bezel are that of your standard diver with single minute marker until the 15-minute point, and 5 minute numerals thereafter. There are 60 clicks in a full rotation. The blackness of the bezel itself looks nice, though I suspect it could be prone to scratching.

Orient Thresher

Dial/Hands:

The dial is nice looking with a very subtle sunray pattern over a black satin gloss. The effect is more dress-like than diver-like, which I suspect was the idea for this watch overall. The indices are executed in raised batons which help to reinforce the “classy” look of this watch. The date window was slightly disappointing however with what appears to be slightly different colors on the day and date wheels. This is only noticeable upon close inspection, but was still a disappointment none the less.

Lume:

The lume on this model is significantly less bright than my Orient Ray. The indices and hands look good during the day, but nighttime is a disappointment with this watch. Take a look at this comparison to the Ray’s lume taken under identical exposure settings. Bummer.

Orient Thresher – Lume Shot

Orient Ray – Lume Shot

Crown:

The crown is your standard pull out crown. I would have liked to see a screw down crown seeing as this is technically marketed as a dive watch. The quickset for the day is a recessed pusher located at the 2 o’clock position. This is a simple means of changing the day, though I wouldn’t think this mechanism is particularly water tight.

Bracelet:

The bracelet is your traditional oyster bracelet style. Unfortunately it is made from folded links that feel hollow and tinny. The watch feels slightly unbalanced with a lightweight bracelet and fairly heavy watch head. With that said, it does employ a nice closing mechanism with double pushers and a safety clasp.

Deployment clasp

Movement:

The movement under the hood is Orient’s caliber 46943, which is a sturdy, reliable movement. The rotor on this particular model seems a little bit loud, but this may just be due to the thinner case not muffling the noise.

Packaging/Presentation:

The packaging was the nicest I’ve seen from Orient to date. The box is a folding design that opens up like an oyster to revel the watch. The top opens and the front wall folds down leading to a very dramatic first impression. This was a nice touch, but really, nobody buys a watch for the box.

Conclusion:

I really wanted to like the Thresher, but as I looked at it the bad slowly started to outweigh the good. This is an attractive diver that is more suited to life under a sleeved shirt than under the water. There isn’t anything wrong with that really, and if you really like the look, then by all means go ahead and get it, but seeing that this watch is well within the same price point of other watches in Orient’s catalog that have higher quality components and better finishes I would pass on the Thresher and go for something else. If you do pick it up my suggestion would be: replace the bracelet and keep it away from the ocean.

[button size=”small”]Options[/button]

The Thresher (FEM7C00) is available in Black on Black, Silver on Black, Silver on Blue, and Silver on White.

[button size=”small”]Price[/button]

$159.99 From Amazon.com

$275.00 Fron OrientWatchUSA.com (use cupon code “Youtube30” for 30% off at checkout)

I hope you found this Orient Thresher review helpful! Did I leave something out? Have something to add? Let me know in the comments.

March 21, 2014
Seiko SKX007 Review

Seiko SKX007 Review

The SKX007 models are direct descendants of Seiko’s first dive watches developed in the early 1960’s. For all of the high end Swiss watches out there, the watch you’re most likely to find on an actual dive boat is the humble Seiko. Designed to be inexpensive but still accurate and reliable, the Seiko SKX series have become an obvious choice for many dive enthusiasts. Seiko offers this line in various configurations, all bearing a resemblance to their predecessors. Because of this self-similarity some people complain that these watches are all too alike and haven’t evolved over the years, but in my opinion they are simply sticking with what works and developing an identity that is distinctly their own. The oversized dial markers and hands, the four-o’clock crown position, the thick and angular bezel and crown guard are all part of the package. Love it or hate it, the SKX line remains popular amongst divers and is the best selling style for Seiko.

All of the opinions below are based on a stock SKX007 that I received for review.

Case:

The SKX007 has a thick stainless steel case with 22mm lugs. The oversized screw down crown and crown guard are angled to the 4 o’clock position, which makes for a comfortable fit. The 45-degree angle also makes changing the time more comfortable. I feel like I am less likely to accidentally pull any arm hairs out while changing the time, which is always nice. The total height measured from bezel to case back is 13.25mm, which makes the SKX slightly harder to “dress up” and wear under a shirt sleeve.

Seiko SKX007 Case and Bracelet

Crystal:

The crystal is completely flat with a chamfered edge and lies slightly countersunk into the bezel. This gives the watch a very square profile. The crystal itself is made from Seiko’s Hardlex material, which should keep it from getting too scratched up. It isn’t sapphire, but it’s probably the next best thing.

Bezel:

The unidirectional bezel feels tight and the clicks have a nice sound to them when rotated. The grip on the bezel is decent, though I feel like the teeth could have been less rounded to give a better grip overall. There are 120 clicks in a full rotation.

Dial/Hands:

The dial has a very clean and uncluttered look, which is exactly what I like to see in a diver. The oversized hands and makers look great during the day, and when the lights go out, whoa buddy look out! The Lumibright lume glows like the sun and keeps its strength for quite a while. The day/date window is clean and attractive with a nice large font that fits well with the oversized styling of the markers and hands. The day can display in either english or spanish, which is nice, however one detractor is the fact that the date function is a dragging day/date, which means it will begin to rotate at around 11pm and won’t fully snap over until 1am, leaving you in limbo for an hour each day. It is also important to not that you shouldn’t use the day/date quickset during this time, though what actually happens if you do is unclear to me.

Seiko SKX007 Dial

Lume:

Seiko uses Lumibright lume, which is some of the brightest and most long lasting lume I’ve ever encountered. The dial markers and hands are generously coated and the lume is evenly distributed all the way to the edge of each marker. There is no border or outline around the markers so the light from the lume is free to spread out in all directions giving a slightly ghosted appearance in the dark. Some people might not like the lack of sharpness, but to me this is something that adds to the character of the watch.

Seiko SKX007 with Lumibrite Lume

Crown:

The crown has a nice projection and is easy enough to grip, though I would prefer if it were a little more chunky looking. The grooves in the surface are thin and closely spaced, giving the crown a slightly feminine appearance that feels out of place on this beefy tool watch.

Seiko SKX007 Crown & Bezel

Bracelet:

The K1 version comes with a “Jubilee” style bracelet, which is very flexible and comfortable. It has solid links measuring 22mm at the lugs which taper down to 20mm at the clasp. This is a comfortable bracelet, but like the crown it somehow feels out of place on the heavy 007. The bracelet employs a folding clasp design with a secondary safety clasp.

SKX007 – Folding Clasp

Movement:

Seiko is known for making reliable movements that can take a beating. The 007 uses the 21 jewel 7s26. The rotor powering the movement is quite smooth and very quiet. I had to hold the watch to my ear to hear it at all. I would imageine this is partly due to the thickness of the case muffling the sounds of the movement, and partly due to well oiled rotor bearings. This movement is not hand wind-able and is non-hacking, which is too bad, but considering the price I’m not complaining.

Packaging/Presentation:

The watch comes in a white box with removable top lid. Inside the 007 is wrapped around a white pillow, though mine had come loose during shipping and was just rattling around in the box. If this were a dress watch I might have been bummed out that my first impression was of a crumpled watch rattling around in a box with a pillow, however since this is a rough-and-tough tool watch that is designed to be beaten up and sunk under the ocean, it was a perfectly acceptable appearance.

Conclusion:

This is an easy watch to like. It has all of the stylings that you would expect from a diver but somehow still manages to keep it’s personality intact.

The SKX007 is available in both Steel Jubilee Bracelet and Rubber Strap flavors for under 200 dollars.
Though if you want the best possible SKX007 experience I would swap out the stock bracelet for the amazingly comfortable 22mm Super Oyster Bracelet. This is 50 dollars well spent.

I hope you found this Seiko SKX007 review helpful! Did I leave something out? Have something to add? Let me know in the comments.

March 16, 2014
How to Choose a Good Dive Watch (That you can actually dive with)
How to Choose a Good Dive Watch

The watch world is flooded with dive watches of all imaginable sizes, shapes, colors and styles. Unfortunately some of these are “fashion” watches masquerading as dive watches. While they may have borrowed the look of a classic diver, they have no business being under the water’s surface and certainly won’t last long at depth. So what do you do when you want a good looking, but more importantly, functional dive watch?

A good functional Dive Watch has six basic functions that allow for safe operation in the crushing depths of the ocean.

When starting your search for that perfect dive watch to use on your expedition it is important to make sure the watch possesses the standard features required for a safe and enjoyable dive. Some of these features come down to personal preference, while others are absolutely mandatory for both the safety of the diver and the watch.

In addition to the basic features of the watch another consideration is Price. Should you spend the extra cash on a watch that has a rich history, flawless quality control, and exotic materials or stick to a basic yet reliable workhorse? Luckily there are many great choices out there that will fit well within anybody’s budget and I will list my favorites at the end.

The Six Requirements of a Good Dive Watch

1) Water Resistance

Water Droplets Under the Crystal

Water resistance is, not surprisingly, the most fundamental and important characteristic of all true dive watches. If you find yourself under the ocean with a cracked crystal and soggy dial, you might as well slip it off and donate the watch to Davy Jones, because it’s not going to be doing you and good.

Water resistance to a minimum of 200 meters depth is generally recommended. In order to meet this depth rating, a dive watch has to meet ISO-6425 specifications, which is a certified international standard for compliant dive watches. Each watch has to withstand a pressure rating that is 25% higher than their stated depth, meaning the dive watch has to pass a lab test simulating 250 meters if it is stated be 200m by the manufacturer.

To achieve water resistance ratings of more than 200 meters, the entire structure of the watch has to be engineered with structural strength in mind. To withstand depths of more than 1000m additional elements may be necessary, including much thicker crystals, beefier cases, Helium escape valves, etc.

The watch case should be made of surgical grade 316L stainless steel or titanium to withstand the intense pressures applied. These are great materials for both their strength and corrosion resistance.

2) Screw Down Crown, Pushers And Case Back

Tudor Submariner with Triplock Screw-Down Crown

Since the crown and case back are the most vulnerable points for water to penetrate, your watch should employ a screw down mechanism and have good gaskets to provide a 100% water-tight seal. You should make sure before any diving excursion that each pusher and crown is tightly screwed down for a secure seal. Be sure to check for this feature. Some high end manufacturers employ sealing methods that involve double gaskets, or cam locking mechanisms, but generally the screw down method is the most reliable, and as such most widely used.

3) Unidirectional Rotating Bezel

Unidirectional Bezel on an Orient Mako II

All classic dive watches for consideration should include a unidirectional rotating bezel with a luminous marker at the 12 o’clock position. This bezel provides another way to measure elapsed time that is easily readable at a glance. The unidirectional nature of the bezel is a safety feature that ensures that the dial won’t accidentally move backwards during your dive, giving you the impression that you have more time than you actually do. If the bezel does get nudged while underwater, the effect is that you will simply go to the surface slightly earlier. You don’t want to overstay your welcome under water when oxygen is limited, and this feature is just one more safety precaution that you shouldn’t overlook.

4) Clear Legibility

A Simple Layout with Great Lume Makes the Seiko SKX007 a Popular Dive Watch

The ocean can be a dark place, and the farther down you go the darker it gets. It is because of this that you want your dive watch to be clear, uncluttered, and easy to read at a glance. The hands, hour markers and dial face should be large and uncluttered, with generous amounts of long lasting lume.

5) Corrosion Resistance

Omega Seamaster with Titanium Case and Bezel

One important characteristic of a dive watch that can sometimes be overlooked is the use of corrosion resistant materials, as well as materials that are easy to clean and resist sea salt buildup. You should look for cases that are made of high grade stainless steel or titanium. Other materials that may be incorporated are ceramics and rubber. Avoid plastics as they will become brittle over time.

6) Specialized Bracelet Or Strap

Orsa Monstrum with Rubber Strap & Seiko Monster with Steel Bracelet

If you plan on wearing your dive watch both in the water and on dry land, it is important to get a bracelet or strap that can work in either situation. When in the ocean you will generally want to wear your watch over a wetsuit, and as such will need to make it larger to fit. All serious dive watches will have a concealed extendable deployment clasp that allows the bracelet to be extended to fit over a wetsuit. If you don’t want a metal bracelet, there are plenty of rubber or nylon straps out there that would work just as well.

The rest is up to you!

So now that you have the basics down, it’s up to you to find a style that fits your personal preference. If you prefer a giant bezel and bright colors the Seiko Orange Monster could be right up your alley. If you prefer a more subdued look that would work both underwater and in a more formal situation take a look at the Orient Mako or Orient Ray Raven. Are you looking for a timeless design that set the standard for dive watches and tool watches in general? The Rolex Submariner is your ticket. Something a little flashier with the same beautiful stylings as a Rolex? Let me introduce you to the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean. Is your last name Bond? Here’s your Omega Seamaster, Mr. Bond; time to dive.

So in summary you want to make sure your watch has the following features:
- Water Resistance
- Screw Down Crown (or other sealing mechanism)
- Unidirectional Dial
- Clear Legibility & Bright Lume
- Corrosion Resistance
- Adjustable Bracelet or Expandable Strap
Looking for further recommendations? Check out some of my Dive Watch Reviews Below:

Bernhardt Binnacle Diver Review

Seiko SKX007 Review

Orient Ray Review

Orient Thresher Review
March 13, 2014