Tag: Automatic

  • Junkers Bauhaus 6060-2 Review

    Junkers Bauhaus 6060-2 Review

    Junkers Bauhaus 6060-2 Review

    Junkers 6060-2 Hugo JunkersHugo Junkers was a German engineer and aircraft designer who is widely credited with designing the first all-metal aircrafts. As founder of the Junkers Flugzeug- und Motorenwerke AG, he was one of the central figures in the German aircraft industry in the years between World War I and World War II. As an outspoken pacifist, Hugo Junkers was not interested in designing warplanes and instead focused his efforts on the development of multi-engine passenger and cargo planes, helping to establish airlines in Germany and all over the world. Although his name is linked to some of the most successful German warplanes of the Second World War, Junkers himself had nothing to do with their development, as was forced out of his own company by the Nazi government in 1934 and died shortly after.

    Junkers was not only a brilliant engineer, but also a great admirer of expressionist painting and modern design. As one of the main sponsors of the Bauhaus movement, he developed a close and fertile connection with the artists of the era, helping to facilitate the move of the Bauhaus from Weimar to Dessau, Germany (where his factory was situated) in 1925. Faithful to the motto of Marcel Breuer, “The good artist works together with the good engineer,” Junkers adopted the high aesthetic claims of the Bauhaus movement in everything he did.

    As with many watch genesis stories, Junkers watches are firmly tied to aviation history. Spending his life designing airplanes, avionics and dials, it’s only natural that this would eventually lead to watches. Even though by this time the founder was long gone, I think his legacy can be seen in the design choices incorporated in the watches bearing his name.

    The Junkers Bauhaus 6060-2 (in black) and 6060-5 (in cream) are automatic watches with a power reserve, 24-hour and date function and hacking seconds. While many people believe the Junkers Bauhaus watches lean too heavily on the Max Bill designed watches, flippantly referring to them as a “Poor Man’s Max Bill”, I think they have a personality and design all their own. Whichever side of the fence you land on, it’s hard to deny that Junkers Bauhaus watches offer a classic Bauhaus design at a great value.

    Junkers Bauhaus 6060-2 Review - dial
    As with all my reviews, I don’t feel comfortable casting judgement on any watch I can’t get my hands on and wear for at least a week. Fortunately, the folks at Junkers (more specifically their manufacturer POINTtec) were nice enough to send me a sample to review.

    Crystal:

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    The crystal on the 6060 is one of the first features you are likely to notice. It is made from domed Hesalite that stands proud of the case and drops down approximately 3mm before connecting with an extremely thin bezel. The effect is that there is no bezel at all and the entirety of the face is taken up by the acrylic. Looking through the crystal at an angle reveals the inverted reflection of the dial below, which further accentuates the round pillowy-ness of the dial. Some people might not like the use of Hesalite on this watch, but with the peculiar shape of the crystal, sapphire would be both extremely expensive to produce and prone to shattering.
    Junkers Bauhaus 6060-2 Review - Crystal

    Bezel:

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    The bezel of the Junkers 6060 is thin at a mere 1mm. The interior wall of the bezel is short and polished to a high gloss. The combined effect of the polished interior wall of the bezel and the curved crystal makes it such that you don’t even see the wall and, instead see a reflected, inverted image of the dial. This isn’t subtle at all. It stands out and for the first few minutes I was inspecting the watch I actually thought the dial was rounded instead of flat. This is one of my favorite aspects of this watch.
    Junkers Bauhaus 6060-2 Review - Bezel

    Case:

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    The case has nicely balanced, though somewhat diminutive proportions overall. This may sound like a criticism, but in the context of a Bauhaus watch, diminutive case proportions are necessary. The unbalanced, weighted proportions of the dial and crystal make for a top heavy look that is generally preferred; the case is small so the dial can be large, the bezel is thin so the crystal can be substantial, and the lugs protrude from below so they don’t add to the visual weight of the case. In my opinion, this is all as it should be. Despite the small size, the case still wears comfortably on my 7 inch wrist.

    On profile, the case has a pie-pan shape with the lugs protruding from the falling slope of the side wall. When viewed from above, it looks as if the lugs protrude from behind and below the bezel, lending to the prominence of the dial and crystal.
    Junkers Bauhaus 6060-2 Review - Case

    Dial/Hands:

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    The dial on the 6060-5 has a nice ash-black background with finely printed crisp white text, numbers and indices. Instead of marking the hour positions with numbers, the dial presents long thin lines and prints the minutes around the perimeter of the dial in 5-minute intervals. This draws your eyes to the outer edge of the dial where the numbers sit on the periphery of the curved dial illusion caused by the glass and the polished interior case wall.

    The hands are all polished silver baton-shaped hands with super-luminova present on the hour and minute hands. The second hand, 24-hour sub hand, and power reserve sub hand are all painted with the same crisp white paint as the dial. My only problem with the hands would be that everything on the watch uses the same crisp white color with the noticeable exception of the hour and minute hand, which have the dull white of untreated super-luminova. The pips on the dial and the Junkers logo at the 12 o’clock position also glow with the same brightness as the hands, and were apparently treated so to appear as crisp white as the rest of the dial. This makes me think that the hands were simply ordered from the manufacturer as-is and weren’t given the same white paint treatment. I wish they had taken the same efforts with the hands as they did with the dial. It would have made for a more uniform color palette.
    Junkers Bauhaus 6060-2 Review - dial


    Lume:

    [hr style="striped"] The lume is actually quite bright, and I'm happy that Junkers went with blue over green. I feel like blue has a cleaner more antiseptic feel to it than green, and this, in my mind, fits well with the overall aesthetics of the watch. My only complaint, as mentioned earlier, is that I wish the lume on the hands had the same white paint appearance as the lume on the dial. This felt like a missed opportunity, and is noticeable on the black-dial version. Junkers also took the opportunity to apply lume to their logo, which I am not normally a fan of, but since their logo is symmetrical and sits at the 12 o'clock position it serves as both a 12 o'clock position marker and nod to the company brand. I'm happy to say this is the single best use of an illuminated logo I've seen in a watch. I like it a lot. Junkers Bauhaus 6060-2 Review - Lume

    Crown:

    [hr style="striped"] The crown is fairly standard with a rectilinear profile and slightly domed end. Looking at it straight on, the Junkers logo is engraved, which gives it a nice touch. The interior portion of the engraving has a whitish color to it, which I thought was lume at first. I believe it is a bead blasting of some sort and looks nice, though I don't know how well it will wear. Junkers Bauhaus 6060-2 Review - Crown

    Strap:

    [hr style="striped"] The strap is a black calfskin leather with a thorn buckle, features a nice taper and was soft and pliable right out of the box. The back of the strap is stamped with "Fatta a mano Cuoio Natural." I believe this means "handmade natural leather" in Italian. I'm not sure where the straps are sourced, but I have no complaints with the fit and finish.

    Movement:

    [hr style="striped"] The movement that came with my watch is a Miyota's caliber 9132, which is a sturdy, reliable movement. This movement gives you hours, minutes, hacking seconds, a 24-hour function, date and finally, a power reserve indicator. That's a lot of complications packed into an affordable watch. I believe the movement also has a day function, which Junkers has opted not to use; a good decision since the dial is already packed with features. One issue I've had with this movement in the past is the noisy rotor that is, unfortunately, extremely noticeable with this watch. It is so noisy, in fact, that at first I was worried there was something loose inside the watch. I think there are multiple factors combined to make this watch so noisy. One is simply that this movement has a noisy rotor; however, I think the unique properties of the small case and large crystal exacerbate the problem. Normally, I don't mind being able to hear a rotor spinning, but this thing is LOUD. Loud and cheap sounding. It has the sound of metal ball bearings bouncing around in a plastic enclosure. Junkers 6060-2 Review - Movement With that said, there are some positives here, too. The Miyota movement has a nice Côtes de Genève decoration, which is always nice. When the crown is fully depressed, winding it will engage the mainspring and wind the watch, which is satisfying since you can noticeably see the power reserve climb with every revolution. It takes approximately 40 turns of the crown to fully wind the watch. The second crown position sets the date, and the third sets the time, which simultaneously sets both the 12-hour and 24-hour hands. The date function is smooth and the transition snaps over at the 12 o'clock position rather than "dragging" like some movements tend to do. Junkers Bauhaus 6060-2 Review - settingJunkers Bauhaus 6060-2 Review - Miyota 9015 Movement

    Accuracy:

    [hr style="striped"] Junkers 6060-2 Review Accuracy

    Packaging/Presentation:

    [hr style="striped"] The watch arrived inside a plain box with a Zeppelin Logo in silver. I get that Junkers and Zeppelin watches are the same thing, but for this watch to arrive in a Zeppelin box was pretty disappointing.

    Conclusion:

    [hr style="striped"] The Junkers Bauhaus 6060-2 is a solid Bauhaus-style watch, with a legitimate pedigree behind it. If you are looking for a smaller size Bauhaus watch with plenty of features that won't break the bank, this may be the watch for you. [button size="small"]Price[/button] $499.00 Leather strap from Amazon.com     I hope you found this Junkers Bauhaus 6060-2 Review helpful! Did I leave something out? Have something to add? Let me know in the comments.

  • Kent Wang Bauhaus v4 Review

    Kent Wang Bauhaus v4 Review

    Kent Wang Bauhaus V4 Review

    Kent Wang is a small two person menswear company whose origins I think many people can relate to; when they were unable to find affordable clothing and accessories that lived up to their expectations they decided to go into business making their own. I know I have dreamed of doing the same, but they went out and made it happen. The Bauhaus v4 is their take on a Bauhaus inspired watch, which takes its modernist design queues from the Staatliches Bauhaus Art school in Germany, whose influences helped shape 20th century industrial design.

    The Bauhaus v4 is the fourth iteration of their Bauhaus watch line and is my favorite of the bunch, however it is worth noting that the v2 and v3 options are still available to purchase though KentWang.com. They each have subtle differences, so I would encourage you to take a look at the whole lineup before making a decision.

    As with all of the reviews here, I don’t feel comfortable casting judgement any watch I can’t get my hands on and wear for at least a week. Fortunately, the folks at Kent Wang were nice enough to send me a sample to review.

    Crystal:

    [hr style=”striped”]
    The sapphire glass on the Bauhaus v4 is completely flat and stands very slightly proud of the bezel. The fact that the glass is flat means it can be prone to reflection and glare. The inclusion of anti-reflective coating, or a curved glass would alleviate this, but with the high contrast of the dial it really wasn’t a problem for me during the time I wore it.
    Kent Wang Bauhaus v4 Review 10

    Bezel:

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    The Bezel on the Bauhaus v4 is very thin at a mere 1mm. The interior wall of the bezel is completely vertical with a brushed steel appearance. You would only really notice the texture upon close inspection, but it looks nice none the less. This narrow bezel lends itself to a large looking face, which to me is preferable in a Bauhaus style watch. The thinner bezel is one of the main differences between the v3 and v4 watches and I think it was a great improvement overall. On profile the polished surface of the bezel has a slight chamfer which catches the light nicely.
    Kent wang Bauhaus v4 Review 09

    Case:

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    The case has very nice overall proportions and sits comfortably on the wrist. The low profile of the case combined with the flat sapphire crystal mean it should slip under the cuff of any shirt. This paired with its classic minimalist styling make it a great option for a dress watch. The caseback has a nice display window with a subtle “Kent Wang” engraved on the side. This is the only branding present on the watch.
    Kent Wang Bauhaus v4 Review - Movement

    Dial/Hands:

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    The dial has a completely white un-textured finish with printed black indices. The ink used to print the indices is slightly glossy and unfortunately gives the dial an ink-on-paper feeling. I feel like this cheapens the overall look of the dial on close inspection, but really isn’t noticeable at a casual glance. If I could make one change to the dial for the v5 it would be to either use applied indices (as they did on the Bauhaus v3), or matte black ink.

    The hands are a nice deep flame blued color which appear black when they are not directly reflecting light. The width of the minute hand is exactly the width of the hour markers, which is a nice touch that is often overlooked in minimalist watch designs. As you would expect with a quality watch, the hands line up perfectly.

    The scale of the hands to indices to bezel feels good with the slight exception of the hour hand which feels a little bit short when compared with the elongated indices on the dial. I think a slightly longer hour hand would help to balance the dial. Another slight nit-pic I have with the hands is again with the hour hand. I generally like my hour hands to completely cover the date window or not touch it at all when at the 3 o’clock position. Again, if the hour hand were slightly longer it would cover the date window rather than stopping half way across it. It’s a minor annoyance which would probably go unnoticed, but since this is a watch with a continually evolving and improving design I figured it was worth mentioning.
    Kent Wang Bauhaus v4 Review 04

    Lume:

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    The Kent Wang Bauhaus v4 has no lume, however the high contrast dial design still makes for a pretty legible watch in low light situations.

    Crown:

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    When I first unboxed the watch I was surprised to see a rich blue dot on the end of the crown. I hadn’t been expecting that at all, and was actually impressed with the way the pop of color on an otherwise colorless watch caught my eye. That was, however, until I realized it was just a sticker to protect the polished crown. Oh.

    That said, the crown is actually quite nice. It resembles more of a scaled down onion type crown that you would find on a pilot watch. I figured with all of the straight lines inherent in Bauhaus styling the crown would also be straight. I’m glad it isn’t. The slightly pillowy-ness of the crown works well with the profile of the case and the curvature of the lugs. It is easy to grasp and has a nice pop and click when pulling and setting.
    Kent Wang Bauhaus v4 Review - Crown

    Strap:

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    The strap on the Bauhaus v4 is a fairly generic brown leather strap. That’s not to say there is anything wrong with it, on the contrary, it is actually pretty nice; it just doesn’t have much personality on its own. The one I received was a dark brown leather, with brown thread and a polished buckle. It has a nice thickness to it and feels well made. It was a little bit stiff at first, but after wearing it for about a week it had softened up and was quite comfortable. If you are looking for a strap with a little more personality Kent Wang offers both a shell cordovan strap and a lizard strap.
    Kent Wang Bauhaus v4 Review - Strap

    Movement:

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    The movement under the hood is Miyota’s caliber 9015, which is a sturdy, reliable movement. One issue I’ve had with this movement in the past is the fact that the rotor can be quite noisy. Luckily, with the Bauhaus V4 that doesn’t seem to be an issue. Between the solidly constructed case and the sapphire glass I don’t notice any noise at all.

    The Miyota movement has a nice côtes de Genève decoration which is always nice to see when a watch has a display caseback. I think all watch movements are beautiful and always appreciate a display caseback no matter what, but when you get a decorated movement as well it’s an especially nice treat.

    When the crown is fully depressed winding it will engage the mainspring, which is very handy if you don’t have a watch winder. A couple seconds winding the crown and you are ready to set the time and go. The second crown position sets the date, and the third sets the time. The date function is smooth and the transition snaps over at the 12 o’clock position rather than “dragging” like some movements tend to do.
    Kent Wang Bauhaus v4 Review - settingKent Wang Bauhaus v4 Review Miyota 9015 Movement

    Accuracy:

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    The accuracy of my watch was perfectly acceptable and within spec for this movement. I measured it in four different positions at full wind with an hour in each position (dial up, dial down, crown up, crown down). This gave me an average of -9 seconds a day, meaning for every 24 hour period my watch will lose 9 seconds.
    Kent Wang Bauhaus V4 Accuracy

    Packaging/Presentation:

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    The watch arrived inside a wooden box with an off white watch pillow. For a watch that is completely unbranded it wasn’t surprising to see that the box lacked branding as well. In a world where brands and logos leap off of every surface, a product like this with very minimal branding is something I really appreciate about Kent Wang’s products.
    Kent Wang Bauhaus v4 Review - Packaging

    Conclusion:

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    The Kent Wang Bauhaus v4 is an all around solid choice for anybody looking for a handsome Bauhaus styled watch. Kent Wang took quality components, solid design choices, zero obnoxious branding, and packaged it together into a outstanding watch at a great price point. If you are looking for something in the Bauhaus style I can definitely recommend this watch, and if you want something that is unbranded this is the watch for you.

    [button size=”small”]Options[/button]

    The Bauhaus v4 is available in white with optional cordovan strap or lizard strap upgrades.

    [button size=”small”]Price[/button]

    $395 From KentWang.com

     

    I hope you found this Ket Wang Bauhaus v4 review helpful! Did I leave something out? Have something to add? Let me know in the comments.

  • Laco Augsburg Review (Type-A)

    Laco Augsburg Review (Type-A)

    Laco Augsburg Review (Type-A)

    [hr style=”striped”]
    Laco is a german watch manufacturer founded in 1925 by Frieda Lacher and Ludwig Hummel. Early in their history Laco began manufacturing Fliegeruhren, or Pilot’s watches, that eventually caught the attention of the German military. With this attention came contracts from the German Airforce to manufacture the infamous Beobachtungsuhren watches for bombers during WWII.

    Designed by the Reichs-Luftfahrtministerium, Laco wasn’t directly responsible for the design of the watches, only the manufacturing. After the end of WWII Laco, like many other German watch manufacturers began reproducing flieger watches under their own brand, experimenting with slight design variations and manufacturing techniques that led directly to the commercially available offerings today.

    If you visit Laco’s website you’ll find an overwhelming amount of flieger watch variations, each with their own unique names, but today we will be focusing on one of their more popular watches, the Laco Augsburg Type-A.

    Crystal:

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    The crystal is a very slightly domed sapphire that sits below the edge of the case. Like most of Laco’s watches, the Augsburg has a sapphire display caseback as well, which is a nice bonus.

    Laco Augsburg Review Type B 03
    Laco Augsburg Review – Domed Sapphire Crystal

    Case:

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    The case is 42mm in diameter and is made from stainless steel with a sandblasted matte finish on the bezel and lugs. Unlike the front, the case back uses polished stainless steel, which to me seems out of place with the matte finish on the rest of the watch. It is also rather thick at just over 12mm. This thickness is partly due to the deep recess created by the space above the dial and hands, and in part due to the thickness of the automatic Miyota movement.

    Dial/Hands:

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    The dial on the Augsburg, like all Type-A dials, is very minimalistic and uncluttered. These watches were originally intended for pilots to be able to read at a glance, so the minimalistic design is part of the appeal of a Type-A Flieger. The dial is a slightly grey black, which is more noticeable in direct light. The indices and hands have a greenish hue to them due to the superluminova C3 paint. Some people dislike this, but to me it is a perfectly fine color, and is actually more in line with the original Luftwaffe watches. The hands aren’t blue like the original Beobachtungsuhren watches, and instead are painted black. This makes for a more crisp glow at night, but I still prefer the original blued hands.

    Laco Augsburg Review - Dial & Hands
    Laco Augsburg Review – Dial & Hands

    Lume:

    [hr style=”striped”]
    Laco uses Superluminova C3 on the Augsburg, and there is plenty of it making for a nice bright watch that is easy to read at a glance. Where as the original Flieger watches only had lume on every other number, Laco opted to use lume on each number. This is a deviation from the original design, but many people prefer it and it does make for a more symmetrical design when viewed at night.

    Laco Augsburg Review Type B 02
    Laco Augsburg Review – Lume

    Crown:

    [hr style=”striped”]
    The crown on the Augsburg, like the Aachen, is another interesting deviation from the original design. Unlike the usual onion crown that is thinner at the base and flairs out, Laco went for a dome shaped crown that is wide at the base and rounded at its point. Where as the original shape was more convenient to grip with a gloved hand, this shape is probably more comfortable for daily use. I should point out that if this is a make it or break it feature for you, Laco does employ the traditional crown shape in its more expensive ETA based watches such as the Replica 45

    Laco Augsburg Review - Crown
    Laco Augsburg Review – Crown

    Strap:

    [hr style=”striped”]
    The strap on the Augsburg is aesthetically similar to the thick leather straps that define the Flieger watch style with thick brown riveted leather. The leather and craftsmanship on the strap are slightly lacking, but luckily the strap is the easiest part to replace on any watch. This one does the job, but I wouldn’t expect it to last long or age particularly well.

    Movement & Accuracy:

    [hr style=”striped”]
    The Augsburg is listed as having the Laco 21 movement, which is really just a stock Miyota 8215 movement with a Laco branded rotor. There is nothing wrong with that in practice, in fact many many high end manufacturers do exactly the same thing, but it’s nice to know what you are actually buying. The movement itself is a 21,600BPH movement, meaning it ticks 6 times per second. The rotor winds in a single direction and spins freely in the other, the result being that it winds up more slowly and can sometimes be noisy. I didn’t personally notice much noise in the movement, but it is a complaint that many people have reported.

    Laco Augsburg Review - Exhibition caseback with sapphire glass showing the Miyota movement
    Laco Augsburg Review – Exhibition caseback with sapphire glass showing the Miyota movement

    Conclusion:

    [hr style=”striped”]
    Laco has a rich and interesting history and makes a wide variety of watches to meet every price point. The Augsburg is a very budget friendly watch with a direct lineage going all the way back to the very genesis of this design. If that is something that appeals to you, then this could be the watch to jump on. Every Laco watch comes with a 2 year warranty, and the fact that you can get them on amazon makes it an even safer purchase.

    [button size=”small”]Options[/button]

    Laco produces a dizzying array of options for this design, from different dial colors, to movement options and case variations; too many to list here. Your best bet is to visit their website or download their catalog.

    [button size=”small”]Price[/button]

    $284.00 Laco Augsburg Type-A From Amazon

     

    I hope you found this Laco Augsburg Review helpful! Did I leave something out? Have something to add? Let me know in the comments.



     

  • Laco Aachen Review (Type-B)

    Laco Aachen Review (Type-B)

    Laco Aachen Review (Type-B)

    Laco is a german watch manufacturer founded in 1925 by Frieda Lacher and Ludwig Hummel. Early in their history Laco began manufacturing Fliegeruhren, or Pilot’s watches, that eventually caught the attention of the German military. With this attention came contracts from the German Airforce to manufacture the infamous Beobachtungsuhren watches for bombers during WWII.

    Designed by the Reichs-Luftfahrtministerium, Laco wasn’t directly responsible for the design of the watches, only the manufacturing. After the end of WWII Laco, like many other German watch manufacturers began reproducing flieger watches under their own brand, experimenting with slight design variations and manufacturing techniques that led directly to the commercially available offerings today.

    If you visit Laco’s website you’ll find an overwhelming amount of flieger watch variations, each with their own unique names, but today we will be focusing on one of their more popular watches, the Laco Aachen Type-B.

    Crystal:

    The crystal is a very slightly domed sapphire that sits below the edge of the case. The Aachen has a sapphire display caseback as well, which is a nice bonus.

    Laco Aachen B-type Sapphire Crystal
    Laco Aachen B-type Sapphire Crystal

    Case:

    The case is 42mm in diameter and is made from stainless steel with a sandblasted matte finish on the bezel and lugs. Unlike the front, the case back uses polished stainless steel, which to me seems out of place with the matte finish on the rest of the watch. It is also rather thick at just over 12mm. This thickness is partly due to the deep recess created by the space above the dial and hands, and in part due to the thickness of the automatic Miyota movement.

    Dial/Hands:

    The dial and hands have a nice balance in proportion. The dial is a slightly grey black, which is more noticeable in direct light. The indices and hands have a greenish hue to them due to the superluminova C3 paint. Some people dislike this, but to me it is a perfectly fine color, and is actually more in line with the original Luftwaffe watches. The hands aren’t blue like the original Beobachtungsuhren watches, and instead are painted black. This makes for a more crisp glow at night, but I still prefer the original blued hands.
    Laco Aachen B Review 05

    Lume:

    Laco uses Superluminova C3 on the Aachen, and with thick type-b hands there is plenty of it. As with most Superluminova watches, they can be spectacularly bright, but are often not terribly long lived in their brightness. This is fine with me. If you want brightness Superluminova does the trick, if you want longevity you’re better off with Tritium gas tubes.

    Laco Aachen B-type Lume
    Laco Aachen B-type Lume

    Crown:

    The crown on the Aachen is interesting. Unlike the usual onion crown that is thinner at the base and flairs out, the Aachen has more of a dome shaped crown that is wide at the base and rounded at its point. Where as the original shape was more convenient to grip with a gloved hand, this shape is probably more comfortable for daily use. I should point out that if this is a make it or break it feature for you, Laco does employ the traditional crown shape in its more expensive ETA based watches such as the Replica 45
    Laco Aachen B Review 06

    Strap:

    The strap on the Aachen is aesthetically similar to the thick leather straps that define the Flieger watch style with thick brown rivited leather. The leather and craftsmanship on the strap are slightly lacking, but luckily the strap is the easiest part to replace on any watch. This one does the job, but I wouldn’t expect it to last long or age particularly well.

    Movement & Accuracy:

    The Aachen is listed as having the Laco 21 movement, which is really just a stock Miyota 8215 movement with a Laco branded rotor. There is nothing wrong with that in practice, in fact many many high end manufacturers do exactly the same thing, but it’s nice to know what you are actually buying. The movement itself is a 21,600BPH movement, meaning it ticks 6 times per second. The rotor winds in a single direction and spins freely in the other, the result being that it winds up more slowly and can sometimes be noisy. I didn’t personally notice much noise in the movement, but it is a complaint that many people have reported.

    Laco Aachen B-type Miyota Movement with Sapphire Glass
    Laco Aachen B-type Miyota Movement with Sapphire Glass

    Conclusion:

    Laco has a rich and interesting history and makes a wide variety of watches to meet every price point. The Aachen is a very budget friendly watch with a direct lineage going all the way back to the very genesis of this design. If that is something that appeals to you, then this could be the watch to jump on. Every Laco watch comes with a 2 year warranty, and the fact that you can get them on amazon makes it an even safer purchase.

    [button size=”small”]Options[/button]

    Laco produces a dizzying array of options for this design, from different dial colors, to movement options and case variations; too many to list here. Your best bet is to visit their website or download their catalog.

    [button size=”small”]Price[/button]

    $284.00 Laco Aachen Type-B From Amazon

     

    I hope you found this Laco Aachen Review helpful! Did I leave something out? Have something to add? Let me know in the comments.



     

  • Bernhardt Binnacle Diver Review

    Bernhardt Binnacle Diver Review

    Bernhardt Binnacle Diver Review

    Bernhardt is a relatively unknown watch manufacturer based in the United States. Founded by Fred Amos, the Bernhardt watch company is a small operation that forgoes advertising to ensure their customers get the most watch possible for their money. It is because of this ethos that Bernhardt remains one of the few companies that can put out a quality watch with solid construction and sapphire glass for under 300 dollars. They currently have a lineup of eight designs, but the one we’re concerned with today is the Binnacle Diver.

    bernhardt binnacle diver review - black champagne blue

    Crystal, Bezel, Case & Crown

    Crystal:

    The crystal is one of the many high points on the Binnacle. It is sapphire, making it virtually scratch proof, perfectly flat and stands slightly proud of the bezel.
    bernhardt binnacle diver review - crystal bezel case crown

    Bezel:

    The bezel on the Binnacle has 5-minute indicators encircling the entire bezel with symmetrical brackets connecting the numerals. The lettering is only available in silver on black. It would have been nice to have different bezel options, but the silver on black still works well with the different dial colors. The solid and highly symmetrical look of the bezel makes me think of the Tudor Black Bay–not a bad association!

    bernhardt binnacle diver review - bezel
    Bernhardt Binnacle Diver Bezel

    Case:

    The case is solid steel with broad rounded lugs. The caseback bears a shark logo as well as the water resistance and material specifications. Another nice touch that Bearnhardt includes on all of their watches is an individually numbered case. This is a small gesture that makes your watch feel personal and special.
    bernhardt binnacle diver review - caseback

    Crown:

    The crown is that of a standard screw-down variety with a “B” engraved on the end.

    Dial/Hands:

    The dial is one aspect of the Binnacle that I’m on the fence about. It wasn’t immediately clear to me that the indicies were supposed to simulate a shark bite, but once I made that connection it was all I could see when looking at the Binnacle Diver and was somewhat distracting. This seems to be a polarizing design choice for Bernhardt–people either love it or hate it. I can’t help but feel like it’s slightly cheesy, though with that said, if there is type of watch that could pull off a little bit of cheese it’s the diver. I feel like the design is growing on me slightly, but I’m still on the fence.

    The hands are another area where I wasn’t particularly blown away. There is nothing wrong with them, but considering this watch has a big personality with the dial I would have hoped that the hands would back that up. Maybe a blood red second hand?

    The dials are available in a variety of colors that should fit within many people’s aesthetics. My two personal favorites are the black and champagne.

    Bernhardt Binnacle Diver Review - Dial
    Bernhardt Binnacle Diver Dial

    Lume:

    Lume is an area that Bernhardt has struggled with in the past. Their previous generation of divers suffered from so-so lume that was reportedly patchy and dim. With the Binnacle Diver they have improved substantially. The lume appears to be evenly applied and while not of the same caliber of other divers (like say the Seiko SKX) it is still super luminova, and does the job.

    Bracelet:

    The bracelet is another high point with the Binnacle Diver. Bernhardt has always been known for their quality bracelets and the Binnacle Diver has a bracelet that lives up to the hype. Solid and substantial feeling with screw in links make this a pleasure to wear and a cinch to size. Couldn’t ask for a better bracelet.

    Bernhardt binnacle diver review - bracelet
    Bernhardt Binnacle Diver Bracelet

    Movement & Accuracy:

    Bernhard sources Miyota 8215 movements for the Binnacle Diver. Designed by the Citizen Corporation of Japan, Miyota movements are known for their reliability and are able to withstand years of use and abuse. I wasn’t able to get the watch on my timegrapher, so I can’t speak to the accuracy, but knowing the Miyota 8215 I wouldn’t worry.

    Packaging/Presentation:

    The Binnacle Diver comes in a leather travel case and is very carefully wrapped and packaged. Previous watches from Bernhardt came in a spectacular wood box which has since been discontinued.

    Conclusion:

    The Binnacle Diver is an absolutely spectacular watch considering the price. The quality of materials and level of detail present in this watch simply can’t be beat within this price range. If you are a fan of the shark bite aesthetic this is a absolute no-brainer. Buy this watch right now. If you are like me and can’t quite get past the dial, sit back and keep an eye on bernhardtwatch.com

    [button size=”small”]Options[/button]

    The Binnacle Diver is available in Black, Blue, Burgundy, Green and Champagne.

    [button size=”small”]Price[/button]

    $259.00 From BernhardtWatch.com

    I hope you found this Bernhardt Binnacle Diver review helpful! Did I leave something out? Have something to add? Let me know in the comments.

  • Orient Ray Review

    Orient Ray Review

    Orient Ray Review

    Orient is a Japanese manufacturer of dependable, mechanical watches. Designing and manufacturing their own movements for the last 50+ years, they have much deserved reputation of quality timepieces at an affordable price.

    The Ray is the predecessor to Orient’s popular Mako line of watches. With the Ray Orient has added some new features and ironed out some of the kinks that plagued the Mako line, making it one of their best sellers. The Ray does a great job of fitting the mold of a capable tool watch while still keeping a low enough profile to work as a dressed up dive watch.

    Orient Ray Review - Black Dial
    Orient Ray

    Crystal:

    The crystal stands slightly proud of the bezel with a gently beveled edge. The material is your standard mineral hardened glass.

    Orient Ray Review - Dial

    Bezel:

    The unidirectional bezel feels tight and secure with a 60-click full rotation. There is zero back slipping and though I have seen complaints elsewhere, mine lines up perfectly at the 12 o’clock position. That said, the grip on the bezel is very shallow, which looks nice, but ultimately makes it hard to turn. The markings on the bezel are that of your standard diver with single minute markers until the 15-minute point, and 10 minute numerals thereafter.

    Dial/Hands:

    The dial has a matte finish that looks great with the over sized diver indices. The scale of the hands to indices to bezel font is spot on to my eye, which is something that has bothered me on other dive watches. Orient got everything right for me in this design. The day/date window has a chamfered cut to it with an applied chrome border that matches that of the hands and indices.

    Lume:

    The lume on the Ray is just as bright as my Seiko divers, which is a great bar for Orient to meet. It glows like the sun and stays bright for quite a while. The silver border on the hands and indices makes for a nice sharp edge to the glow of the lume. Here is a comparison of the Ray and the SKX007. No complaints here.

    Orient Ray Review - Lume

    Crown:

    The Ray has a screw down crown as well as a screw down day quickset. I have heard people complaining that the screw down quickset can unscrew itself while being worn, but that hasn’t been my experience. It makes a tight seal on both the crown and the day pusher and while I haven’t personally dived with this watch I would feel fine taking it all the way down without any worries.

    Orient Ray Review - Crown

    Bracelet:

    The bracelet is one place Orient really improved with the Ray. The links are solid and the bracelet feels really great overall. It uses a fold over clasp with double push-button safety. The oyster style looks good and the matte finish with polished stripes is a nice touch.

    Orient Ray Review - Bracelet 1

    Orient Ray Review - Bracelet 2

    Orient Ray Review - Bracelet 3
    Orient Ray Review - Clasp

    Movement & Accuracy:

    The movement under the hood is Orient’s caliber 46943, which is a sturdy, reliable movement. The rotor feels smooth and is whisper quiet.

    Packaging/Presentation:

    The packaging is nice with a metal inset lid and pillow on the interior. Nothing too spectacular, but still perfectly acceptable.

    Conclusion:

    The Ray is an all around solid choice for anybody looking for a handsome diver under 300 dollars.

    [button size=”small”]Options[/button]

    The Ray (FEM6500) is available in Black, Blue, and Orange flavors.

    [button size=”small”]Price[/button]

    $149.99 From Amazon.com

    $295.00 Fron OrientWatchUSA.com (use cupon code “Youtube30” for 30% off at checkout)

     

    I hope you found this Orient Ray review helpful! Did I leave something out? Have something to add? Let me know in the comments.

  • Orient Thresher Review

    Orient Thresher Review

    Orient Thresher Review

    orient thresher review
    The Thresher is a nice looking diver with what I would call a black-tie sort of styling. This is a watch that can easily pull off a more dressed up look, but unfortunately I found it is lacking some of the qualities I’ve come to expect in an Orient dive watch.

    Crystal:

    The crystal is completely flat without any beveling or chamfering and sits parallel with the top surface of the bezel. The crystal is made of your standard mineral hardened glass, and given the nature of this flat, edgeless design, should resist scratches and chips fairly well.

    Orient Thresher Review - Dial
    Orient Thresher Dial

    Bezel:

    The unidirectional bezel doesn’t feel quite as tight as other Orient divers I’ve handled (namely the Mako and Ray). That said, the grip on the bezel is good with six lugs protruding at 10-minute intervals. The markings on the bezel are that of your standard diver with single minute marker until the 15-minute point, and 5 minute numerals thereafter. There are 60 clicks in a full rotation. The blackness of the bezel itself looks nice, though I suspect it could be prone to scratching.

    Orient Thresher Review - Dial
    Orient Thresher

    Dial/Hands:

    The dial is nice looking with a very subtle sunray pattern over a black satin gloss. The effect is more dress-like than diver-like, which I suspect was the idea for this watch overall. The indices are executed in raised batons which help to reinforce the “classy” look of this watch. The date window was slightly disappointing however with what appears to be slightly different colors on the day and date wheels. This is only noticeable upon close inspection, but was still a disappointment none the less.

    Lume:

    The lume on this model is significantly less bright than my Orient Ray. The indices and hands look good during the day, but nighttime is a disappointment with this watch. Take a look at this comparison to the Ray’s lume taken under identical exposure settings. Bummer.

    Orient Thresher Review - Lume Shot
    Orient Thresher – Lume Shot
    Orient Ray Review - Lume Shot
    Orient Ray – Lume Shot

    Crown:

    The crown is your standard pull out crown. I would have liked to see a screw down crown seeing as this is technically marketed as a dive watch. The quickset for the day is a recessed pusher located at the 2 o’clock position. This is a simple means of changing the day, though I wouldn’t think this mechanism is particularly water tight.

    Bracelet:

    The bracelet is your traditional oyster bracelet style. Unfortunately it is made from folded links that feel hollow and tinny. The watch feels slightly unbalanced with a lightweight bracelet and fairly heavy watch head. With that said, it does employ a nice closing mechanism with double pushers and a safety clasp.
    Orient Thresher Review - Bracelet 1

    Orient Thresher Review - Bracelet 2
    Deployment clasp

    Movement:

    The movement under the hood is Orient’s caliber 46943, which is a sturdy, reliable movement. The rotor on this particular model seems a little bit loud, but this may just be due to the thinner case not muffling the noise.

    Packaging/Presentation:

    The packaging was the nicest I’ve seen from Orient to date. The box is a folding design that opens up like an oyster to revel the watch. The top opens and the front wall folds down leading to a very dramatic first impression. This was a nice touch, but really, nobody buys a watch for the box.

    Conclusion:

    I really wanted to like the Thresher, but as I looked at it the bad slowly started to outweigh the good. This is an attractive diver that is more suited to life under a sleeved shirt than under the water. There isn’t anything wrong with that really, and if you really like the look, then by all means go ahead and get it, but seeing that this watch is well within the same price point of other watches in Orient’s catalog that have higher quality components and better finishes I would pass on the Thresher and go for something else. If you do pick it up my suggestion would be: replace the bracelet and keep it away from the ocean.

    [button size=”small”]Options[/button]

    The Thresher (FEM7C00) is available in Black on Black, Silver on Black, Silver on Blue, and Silver on White.

    [button size=”small”]Price[/button]

    $159.99 From Amazon.com

    $275.00 Fron OrientWatchUSA.com (use cupon code “Youtube30” for 30% off at checkout)

    I hope you found this Orient Thresher review helpful! Did I leave something out? Have something to add? Let me know in the comments.

  • Seiko SKX007 Review

    Seiko SKX007 Review

    Seiko SKX007 Review

    The SKX007 models are direct descendants of Seiko’s first dive watches developed in the early 1960’s. For all of the high end Swiss watches out there, the watch you’re most likely to find on an actual dive boat is the humble Seiko. Designed to be inexpensive but still accurate and reliable, the Seiko SKX series have become an obvious choice for many dive enthusiasts. Seiko offers this line in various configurations, all bearing a resemblance to their predecessors. Because of this self-similarity some people complain that these watches are all too alike and haven’t evolved over the years, but in my opinion they are simply sticking with what works and developing an identity that is distinctly their own. The oversized dial markers and hands, the four-o’clock crown position, the thick and angular bezel and crown guard are all part of the package. Love it or hate it, the SKX line remains popular amongst divers and is the best selling style for Seiko.

    All of the opinions below are based on a stock SKX007 that I received for review.

    Case:

    The SKX007 has a thick stainless steel case with 22mm lugs. The oversized screw down crown and crown guard are angled to the 4 o’clock position, which makes for a comfortable fit. The 45-degree angle also makes changing the time more comfortable. I feel like I am less likely to accidentally pull any arm hairs out while changing the time, which is always nice. The total height measured from bezel to case back is 13.25mm, which makes the SKX slightly harder to “dress up” and wear under a shirt sleeve.

    Seiko SKX007 Review - Case and Bracelet
    Seiko SKX007 Case and Bracelet

    Crystal:

    The crystal is completely flat with a chamfered edge and lies slightly countersunk into the bezel. This gives the watch a very square profile. The crystal itself is made from Seiko’s Hardlex material, which should keep it from getting too scratched up. It isn’t sapphire, but it’s probably the next best thing.

    Bezel:

    The unidirectional bezel feels tight and the clicks have a nice sound to them when rotated. The grip on the bezel is decent, though I feel like the teeth could have been less rounded to give a better grip overall. There are 120 clicks in a full rotation.
    Seiko SKX007 Review - Bracelet

    Dial/Hands:

    The dial has a very clean and uncluttered look, which is exactly what I like to see in a diver. The oversized hands and makers look great during the day, and when the lights go out, whoa buddy look out! The Lumibright lume glows like the sun and keeps its strength for quite a while. The day/date window is clean and attractive with a nice large font that fits well with the oversized styling of the markers and hands. The day can display in either english or spanish, which is nice, however one detractor is the fact that the date function is a dragging day/date, which means it will begin to rotate at around 11pm and won’t fully snap over until 1am, leaving you in limbo for an hour each day. It is also important to not that you shouldn’t use the day/date quickset during this time, though what actually happens if you do is unclear to me.

    Seiko SKX007 Review - Dial
    Seiko SKX007 Dial

    Lume:

    Seiko uses Lumibright lume, which is some of the brightest and most long lasting lume I’ve ever encountered. The dial markers and hands are generously coated and the lume is evenly distributed all the way to the edge of each marker. There is no border or outline around the markers so the light from the lume is free to spread out in all directions giving a slightly ghosted appearance in the dark. Some people might not like the lack of sharpness, but to me this is something that adds to the character of the watch.

    Seiko SKX007 Review - Lumibrite Lume
    Seiko SKX007 with Lumibrite Lume

    Crown:

    The crown has a nice projection and is easy enough to grip, though I would prefer if it were a little more chunky looking. The grooves in the surface are thin and closely spaced, giving the crown a slightly feminine appearance that feels out of place on this beefy tool watch.

    Seiko SKX007 Review - Crown & Bezel
    Seiko SKX007 Crown & Bezel

    Bracelet:

    The K1 version comes with a “Jubilee” style bracelet, which is very flexible and comfortable. It has solid links measuring 22mm at the lugs which taper down to 20mm at the clasp. This is a comfortable bracelet, but like the crown it somehow feels out of place on the heavy 007. The bracelet employs a folding clasp design with a secondary safety clasp.
    Seiko SKX007 Review - Bracelet 2

    Seiko SKX007 Review - Folding Clasp
    SKX007 – Folding Clasp

    Movement:

    Seiko is known for making reliable movements that can take a beating. The 007 uses the 21 jewel 7s26. The rotor powering the movement is quite smooth and very quiet. I had to hold the watch to my ear to hear it at all. I would imageine this is partly due to the thickness of the case muffling the sounds of the movement, and partly due to well oiled rotor bearings. This movement is not hand wind-able and is non-hacking, which is too bad, but considering the price I’m not complaining.

    Packaging/Presentation:

    The watch comes in a white box with removable top lid. Inside the 007 is wrapped around a white pillow, though mine had come loose during shipping and was just rattling around in the box. If this were a dress watch I might have been bummed out that my first impression was of a crumpled watch rattling around in a box with a pillow, however since this is a rough-and-tough tool watch that is designed to be beaten up and sunk under the ocean, it was a perfectly acceptable appearance.

    Conclusion:

    This is an easy watch to like. It has all of the stylings that you would expect from a diver but somehow still manages to keep it’s personality intact.

    The SKX007 is available in both Steel Jubilee Bracelet and Rubber Strap flavors for under 200 dollars.
    Though if you want the best possible SKX007 experience I would swap out the stock bracelet for the amazingly comfortable 22mm Super Oyster Bracelet. This is 50 dollars well spent.

    I hope you found this Seiko SKX007 review helpful! Did I leave something out? Have something to add? Let me know in the comments.